By Al Bustan Pools
Cleaning fixes what you can see. Maintenance is what keeps the water safe, clear and balanced so the problems never appear. In Dubai, where heat, UV and long swimming seasons put constant pressure on pool water, maintenance is a system: correct chemistry, enough circulation, working equipment, a schedule that changes with the seasons, and a record of what you did. This guide covers all of it, from the target numbers and how to balance water in the right order, to why chlorine disappears, how long to run the pump, how to cool an overheated pool, how salt and chlorine systems compare, how to maintain a pool while you are away, and what a maintenance contract should include.
This guide is part of our https://albustanpools.com/swimming-pool-care-guide-dubai/. For dirty-water problems and filter cleaning, see our Pool Cleaning in Dubai: Complete Guide.
The short version
- Maintenance has four parts: chemistry, circulation and filtration, equipment servicing, and record keeping.
- Balance water in order: alkalinity, then pH, then stabilizer and hardness, then chlorine.
- In Dubai, chlorine is lost mainly to heat and UV, so stabilizer (cyanuric acid) and testing frequency matter more than in cooler climates.
- The pump should turn over all the water at least once a day. Many Dubai pools need 8 to 12 hours in summer.
- Test two to three times a week in summer, weekly in winter, and always after storms, heavy use or topping up.
- Write down every test and every dose. Patterns in the log catch problems early.
The target numbers
These are the standard ranges used across the industry. If you have a salt chlorinator, heat pump or chiller, follow the manufacturer’s range for the specific unit where it differs.
| Measure | Typical target | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Free chlorine | 1 to 3 ppm (higher in heavy use or with high stabilizer) | Kills bacteria and algae |
| Combined chlorine | Below 0.5 ppm | Chloramines cause smell and irritation |
| pH | 7.2 to 7.6 | Chlorine efficiency, comfort, equipment protection |
| Total alkalinity | 80 to 120 ppm | Buffers pH |
| Calcium hardness | 200 to 400 ppm | Prevents corrosion and scale |
| Cyanuric acid (stabilizer) | 30 to 50 ppm for most chlorine pools | Slows UV chlorine loss |
| Salt (salt pools) | As specified by the cell, often around 3,000 to 4,000 ppm | Chlorine generation |
| TDS | Watch the trend, not a single number | Rising TDS means the water is aging |
Water is also described by its saturation or balance index (such as the Langelier index): a combination of pH, alkalinity, calcium, temperature and TDS. Water that is out of balance in one direction scales surfaces and equipment; in the other direction it corrodes metal and etches plaster. Dubai’s high water temperatures push water towards scaling, so watch calcium and pH together.
How to test your water properly
- Test strips: quick but approximate. Fine for a quick check, poor at high chlorine levels.
- Liquid drop kits (DPD or similar): more accurate. Chlorine tests that bleach out at high levels can mislead you when chlorine is very high.
- Digital testers and photometers: accurate if calibrated and used correctly.
- Professional water analysis: needed for metals, phosphates, TDS and when the water behaves strangely.
Good testing habits
- Take the sample from about elbow depth, away from skimmers and return jets.
- Rinse the test vial with pool water first.
- Test before adding any chemical, and again after the water has circulated.
- Read results in daylight, immediately.
- Keep reagents out of the sun and replace them before they expire.
How to balance pool water, step by step
The order matters because changing one reading shifts the others.
- Test everything. Record chlorine, pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness and stabilizer.
- Fix total alkalinity first. To raise it, use sodium bicarbonate. To lower it, add acid (with the pump running) and aerate to let pH recover.
- Adjust pH. To lower it, use muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate. To raise it, use soda ash (sodium carbonate).
- Adjust calcium hardness and stabilizer if they are out of range. Raising calcium needs calcium chloride. Lowering calcium or stabilizer generally means partially draining and refilling with fresh water.
- Set chlorine last to suit your stabilizer level.
- Retest after circulation. Wait at least several hours (and ideally a full circulation cycle) before retesting.
Rules for adding chemicals
- Add in small amounts and retest rather than overdosing.
- Dilute and add chemicals around the pool or via the skimmer or return as the product label says.
- Never mix chemicals. Never add one chemical on top of another.
- Add chemical to water, never water to chemical.
- Run the pump while dosing.
- Wear gloves and eye protection, and keep swimmers out until levels are safe.
High pH: causes and how to lower it
Common causes in Dubai: liquid chlorine and calcium hypochlorite both push pH up; salt chlorinators tend to raise pH over time; aeration from water features and returns; high alkalinity; fresh plaster; evaporation in hot weather.
Effects: chlorine becomes much less effective, scale forms on tiles and heater or chiller heat exchangers, water turns cloudy and swimmers’ eyes may feel dry.
Fix: check total alkalinity first. If alkalinity is high, lowering it with acid also lowers pH. Dose acid slowly in small amounts, with the pump running, and retest. Check regularly if you use a salt system or liquid chlorine, because pH will creep up again.
Low pH
Low pH is less common in Dubai but happens with trichlor tablets, heavy rain and heavy bather loads. Low pH corrodes metal fittings and heat exchangers, etches plaster and irritates skin. Raise it with soda ash after checking alkalinity. If alkalinity is also low, raise alkalinity first with sodium bicarbonate.
Chlorine that won’t hold in Dubai heat
If chlorine reads fine in the morning and zero by evening, one of these is usually the cause:
| Cause | Clue | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Not enough stabilizer | CYA is below about 20 to 30 ppm | Add stabilizer gradually, retest |
| UV and heat | Faster loss on hot sunny days | Dose later in the day, shade, correct CYA |
| Algae or organic load | Water looks dull or slightly green | Brush, shock, clean filter |
| Chloramine build-up | Strong smell, combined chlorine high | Shock to breakpoint |
| Heavy use or dust | After parties, storms or dust | Raise dosing and clean filter |
| Dosing issue | Salt cell dirty or timer off, feeder empty | Check equipment |
| Test error | Strips bleached or stale reagents | Retest with a reliable method |
Cyanuric acid (stabilizer)
CYA protects chlorine from sunlight, which is essential in Dubai. But it works like a speed limit on chlorine: the higher the CYA, the higher the chlorine level you need to keep the same sanitising power. A common guideline is to hold free chlorine at roughly 7.5 percent of CYA as a minimum (for example, about 3 ppm free chlorine at CYA 40). Algae problems appear when CYA is high and chlorine is kept at a level that is too low for it.
Watch out for: trichlor tablets (they add CYA every time they dissolve), dichlor shock, and “stabilised chlorine” products. Over a season, pools using these slowly overshoot the range.
To reduce high CYA: the practical method is partial draining and refilling with fresh water, done with advice if your pool is in a high water table area. Reverse osmosis refill services exist for large reductions. Chlorine and shocks do not remove CYA.
Salt pools: many salt chlorinator makers recommend a higher CYA range than 30 to 50 ppm. Follow your cell manufacturer.
How to shock a pool and when
Shocking means raising chlorine to a high level to destroy chloramines, organic matter and algae.
When to shock
- Combined chlorine is above about 0.5 ppm or there is a strong chlorine smell
- After heavy use, a party or a storm
- At the first sign of algae
- After a long period of low chlorine
How to do it
- Balance pH first (7.2 to 7.6).
- Use a shock product suited to your pool, following the label.
- Shock in the evening so the sun does not burn the chlorine off.
- Keep the pump running and brush the pool.
- Keep swimmers out until chlorine falls back to a safe level.
- Retest to confirm combined chlorine has dropped.
Salt water vs chlorine pools
| Salt chlorinator | Tablets, granules or liquid chlorine | |
|---|---|---|
| How chlorine is made | Cell generates chlorine from dissolved salt | You add chlorine products |
| Upfront cost | Higher | Lower |
| Ongoing cost | Salt, electricity, cell replacement every few years | Chlorine products |
| Water feel | Often softer | Can feel harsher depending on product |
| pH | Tends to rise over time | Depends on product |
| Maintenance | Cell inspection and cleaning, salt level checks | Restocking and dosing |
| Risks | Salt can corrode some metals and damage some natural stone | Handling and storing strong chemicals, CYA build-up with tablets |
| Reliability in Dubai heat | Works well but needs correct CYA, salt and flow | Works well if dosing is consistent |
A salt pool is still a chlorine pool. It still needs balanced water, stabilizer, testing and a clean filter. It reduces the need to handle chlorine, not the need for maintenance. Whether it suits you depends on your pool surfaces, equipment and who looks after it.
How long should a pool pump run each day?
Your pool needs to circulate its entire volume through the filter at least once a day, and in hot weather more than once. This is called turnover.
Turnover time = pool volume divided by pump flow rate
Example: a 50 cubic metre (50,000 litre) pool with a pump delivering 15 cubic metres per hour turns over once in about 3.3 hours. Running the pump for 8 to 10 hours gives roughly two to three turnovers.
Typical practice in Dubai
- Summer: 8 to 12 hours, split across the day and night as the system allows
- Winter: 6 to 8 hours
- After storms, heavy use or algae treatment: continuous until clear
Variable-speed pumps run at lower speeds for longer and use much less electricity for the same turnover. Check that the flow remains enough for the filter, chlorinator and heater or chiller.
Running the pump during the day, when UV is strong, helps chlorine distribution and reduces stagnant zones, and running it at night helps cooling in some chiller setups. Follow your equipment guidance and check that returns and suction points are balanced so no part of the pool is dead.
Why pool water gets too hot in Dubai, and what to do
In summer, an unchilled, unshaded pool commonly reaches temperatures that are uncomfortable for swimming and ideal for algae. The causes are intense sun, high air temperature, shallow depth and a lack of shade.
Options
- Chiller or reversible heat pump with a cooling mode: the real solution. Size the unit to the pool volume, exposure and the temperature drop you want. An undersized unit will run constantly and still not cool enough.
- Shade structures, sails and pergolas: lower the heat gain and reduce algae.
- Solid pool covers: reduce evaporation and heat gain when the pool is idle.
- Running the pump at night: helps a little with evaporative cooling but is not a fix.
- Keep the heat exchanger and coils clean: scale and dirt reduce chiller efficiency.
A common comfort target is around 28 to 30 degrees C, but set it to taste. Remember that colder set points use more electricity.
Equipment maintenance
Pump
- Empty the basket regularly with the pump off.
- Check the lid o-ring and lubricate it with pool-safe silicone.
- Listen for new noises, which often indicate bearing wear.
- Watch for drips at the shaft seal.
Filter
- Note the clean pressure after cleaning, then clean or backwash when it rises about 8 to 10 psi.
- Sand media typically lasts about five to seven years; cartridges one to three years, depending on use.
Chlorinator cell (salt)
- Inspect for scale every month or two and clean as the manufacturer instructs.
- Keep salt and pH in range, since scale builds fast at high pH.
- Cells wear out and need replacing after several years.
Chiller or heat pump
- Keep airflow clear and the fins clean.
- Confirm water flow rate is correct.
- Keep water balanced so scale does not form in the heat exchanger.
- Schedule an annual service.
Lights
- Look for condensation or water in the light and for flickering. Turn off power and call a qualified technician for faults.
Valves, automation and dosing equipment
- Exercise valves, check for leaks and lubricate seals.
- Check timers and controllers after power cuts.
- Calibrate sensors and probes as per the manufacturer.
Pool maintenance checklist
| Frequency | Tasks |
|---|---|
| Daily | Check pump is running, water level and clarity; empty skimmer baskets if needed |
| Weekly (twice in summer) | Test and balance water; brush; vacuum; empty pump basket; check filter pressure |
| Monthly | Clean waterline; check calcium and stabilizer; inspect equipment room; check salt cell; check chiller |
| Quarterly | Deep clean filter; check lights, valves and controllers |
| Annually | Service pump, chiller or heater; consider replacing worn media or seals; full water analysis |
Summer and winter schedule in Dubai
| Summer (roughly May to October) | Winter (roughly November to April) | |
|---|---|---|
| Testing | Two to three times a week | Weekly |
| Pump run time | 8 to 12 hours | 6 to 8 hours |
| Chlorine demand | High | Lower |
| Algae risk | High | Moderate, but still present |
| Water temperature | Needs cooling | May need heating for comfortable use |
| Priorities | CYA, filtration, cooling | Balance, filter care, prepare for the next summer |
Do not switch the pump or chemistry off in winter. Algae grows more slowly but a neglected winter pool is the one that turns green the first warm week.
Maintaining a pool while you are away
- Clean the pool and clean the filter before leaving.
- Balance the water and raise chlorine and stabilizer to appropriate levels.
- Set a pump timer that runs enough hours daily.
- Top up the water level and use a cover if you have one.
- Arrange scheduled visits from a professional (every week for summer, every one to two weeks for winter).
- Check that the chlorinator, feeder or automation will keep working for the whole absence, and that power cuts won’t leave the pump off.
- Ask your service company to message you with readings and photos.
No arrangement is better than a regular visit. A pool left alone for weeks in summer usually needs a recovery clean.
Pool maintenance cost per month: what drives it
Prices differ between companies, so we do not quote one figure. These are the factors that change the monthly cost:
- Pool volume and surface area
- Visits per week or month
- Whether chemicals are included or charged at cost
- Equipment to service (salt cell, chiller, automation, robot)
- Pool condition at the start
- Contract term
- Distance and access
Other running costs to budget for: electricity for pump and chiller, water top-ups, replacement parts, filter media, and occasional repairs. Pool Maintenance on schedule usually costs less than repairs from neglect.
Pool maintenance contracts (AMC): what to look for
A good annual maintenance contract is a written scope of work. Check that it states:
- Visits: number per week or month, and typical duration
- Tasks: testing, brushing, vacuuming, basket emptying, filter care, waterline cleaning, equipment checks
- Chemicals: included, capped or billed at cost, and how usage is logged
- Equipment: which equipment is covered and what repairs or parts are extra
- Emergency response: how fast they respond to a green pool, pump failure or chiller fault
- Reporting: written or digital reports of readings and work done
- Recovery work: how a green or neglected pool at the start is handled and charged
- Holiday cover: how the service continues when you are away
- Term and termination: minimum period, renewal and notice terms
- Insurance and licence: trade licence and public liability cover
Red flags: no written scope, no mention of testing, no report, very low price compared with others, “unlimited” claims without limits, no response commitment, and pressure to buy new equipment without diagnosis.
Maintenance log
Keep a simple record, on paper or a phone note. Include date, free and combined chlorine, pH, alkalinity, calcium, stabilizer, filter pressure, pump hours, chemicals added and notes. After a few weeks you will see patterns, such as stabilizer creeping up or pH rising weekly, that tell you what to change.
Frequently asked questions
What should my pool chemicals be? Free chlorine 1 to 3 ppm, pH 7.2 to 7.6, alkalinity 80 to 120 ppm, calcium 200 to 400 ppm, stabilizer 30 to 50 ppm (higher range for some salt systems).
Why does my chlorine keep dropping to zero? Low stabilizer, heat, algae, chloramines, or a dosing or testing problem. Test CYA first.
Do I need to shock every week? No. Shock when combined chlorine is high, after heavy use or storms, or when algae appears.
How often should I test? Two to three times a week in summer, weekly in winter and after storms or heavy use.
Can I drain a pool to lower stabilizer? You can partially drain and refill, but get advice first if there is a risk of groundwater.
Is a salt pool less work? It changes the work. You handle less chlorine but still need testing, balancing and cell care.
How many hours should my pump run? Enough for at least one turnover a day, typically 8 to 12 hours in a Dubai summer.
Do I need a chiller? If you want comfortable swimming from roughly June to September, usually yes.
Want it handled?
Al Bustan Pools provides pool maintenance contracts across Dubai, with scheduled testing, balancing, equipment checks and recorded reports. Contact us for an inspection and an itemised quote. For problems that need repair, see our Pool Repair guide.